Let’s talk AW26 specifically. What was the first image, feeling, or obsession that cracked this collection open?
One of the key inspirations of the collection was particularly inspired by Anfang/Beginning: Berlin 1994–99, a photo series by Christian Stemmler, who documented his circle of friends in Berlin during that transformative era. The images capture the authenticity of the time - afterparties at someone's apartment, street snapshots, and intimate portraits that radiate a sense of communal freedom and creative camaraderie. I wanted to harken back and emote a sense of hopefulness given the current social climate that often feels disjointed.
AW26 is arriving in a moment where rights, bodies, and identities are once again under attack. Do you see your work as political in any way - and do you think fashion has a responsibility to be?
I don’t necessarily design with overt politics in mind, but I think the act of creating inclusive, body-conscious, and gender-expansive clothing is inherently political. Existing outside of gender and body norms challenges the systems that enforce these standards. I believe fashion has the ability to visually reflect and respond to the world we’re living in, creating a space for self-expression.
Sustainability in fashion is often reduced to buzzwords. What does responsibility actually look like in your design process: where do you push for better choices, and where do you still feel the tension or compromise?
We specialize in fully fashioned knitwear, a zero-waste clothing category that ensures no excess yarn is purchased or discarded (unlike cut-and-sew designs that emit a lot of fabric scrap waste). This technique also allows us to maintain low minimum order quantities with our factory partners (sometimes down to one piece), which helps prevent overproduction - even though this results in higher unit costs for us.
From a materials standpoint, we avoid synthetic stretch fibers and instead use high-crimp organic wool breeds like Merino, Polwarth, and Cormo for natural elasticity. We also integrate salvaged and recycled fibers into our designs, offering both environmental benefit and a richer tactile experience for customers - particularly valuable in DTC where they can’t try pieces before buying. For us, sustainability also means resisting the pace of fast fashion. Each season, we launch a focused yet diverse collection with intentionally low MOQs. Our goal is to produce only what we anticipate selling, avoiding inventory surplus or overstock pressure. This approach not only minimizes waste, but also makes each piece feel more intentional, unique, and precious.
When sourcing materials, what are your non-negotiables and what realities of production force you to make hard decisions?
My primary concern when sourcing materials is how they feel in hand and on body. Comfort, softness, as well as substantiality are essential. Of course, we always want to use sustainable materials that feel good to wear and meet our standards of quality. However, certain materials can be costly from a retail or wholesale perspective. There’s a constant balancing act between accessibility, price point, and material integrity. Making thoughtful compromises while staying aligned with our values is part of that reality.
Beauty and fashion have historically policed each other. What role does makeup play in your world-building - armor, fantasy, rebellion, or something else entirely?For us, beauty can be all of the above. We believe all art forms inform each other. Any art form - including beauty and makeup - ultimately is a tool for self-expression. It allows people to transform themselves: to subvert traditional beauty norms, create armor, or escape into fantasy. It’s a powerful way to control how you’re perceived and how you feel in your own body.
